Spanish Ham, Lomo and Chorizo
In the world of Spanish ham, there are two premium classifications: Iberian pigs and acorn-fed pigs. Unlike white pig breeds such as the Serrano, black-skinned Iberian pigs are descended from the Mediterranean wild boar and are colloquially called pata negra.
Iberian pigs are expensive. They have smaller litters, produce less meat per head and take longer to mature. Until recently, ham from half-Iberian pigs could be sold as Iberian ham, but now new legislation makes it mandatory to label Iberian ham according to the percentage of Iberian ancestry of the pigs.
Then there are the acorns, which fall from holm and cork oaks from early October to early March on the farms where the pigs are raised. They have a high fat content, and their consumption is what makes the pigs' fat so soft and creamy. Acorns also contribute to the nutty flavor and aroma of the ham, as essential to the product as the meat itself. Of all commercially raised Iberian pigs, only 5% are purebred and acorn-fed.
The farms where they are raised are the "dehesas", the dehesas are a national treasure. Just as acorns are an essential ingredient of ham, so are the dehesas. These pigs need to roam freely, in the hills and forests, for their muscles to develop and for the ham produced to be of the highest quality.
For 18 to 24 months, the pigs will roam the pasture, grazing on grass, mushrooms, insects, herbs, whatever they can find. From October to March, the montanera, the time of the acorns, begins and the pigs go into action. Fat acorns are the pigs' favorite food. By the second mast, the hogs will have feasted enough to reach their slaughter weight, about 360 pounds.
The curing facilities are often over 100 years old: partly modern offices and partly old farmhouses. In one courtyard you can still see hundreds of roof hooks from when the ham was cured in the open air. Now they rest in a spacious brick-walled cellar.
The hams are skinned, salted, rinsed, dried and sent to the curing cellar, where they will remain for about a year and a half.
Thick brick walls, a windy, mountainous climate and a stable population of ham-friendly microorganisms are most of what the meat needs to finish its journey and become ham.
Before a ham leaves the cellar, it undergoes a smell test. It is said that a trained nose can detect 100 aromas in a premium ham, some sweet, some meaty, some nutty.
Lomo iberico de bellota (Acorn Iberican Loin)
Cured spanish lomo is not as well known as other Spanish sausages, such as Serrano ham or chorizo.
When it comes to curing lomo, the Spanish have perfected it, and there are several variations depending on the origin of the cut. Many local artisans season their loins before beginning the curing process, resulting in an infusion of flavors.
Iberian loin, which comes from acorn-fed Iberian pigs, is something else entirely, this loin is flecked with creamy yellowish-white fat, but it is the texture of this specialty, as well as its flavor, that will impress you. Iberico loin has nutty tones and melts in the mouth.
Iberian loin may be expensive, but it will provide you with an unparalleled dining experience. Weight for weight, this loin is even more expensive than Iberian ham, which should suggest that this is one of the best cured meats in the world.
Chorizo Iberico de Bellota
Chorizo is, in many ways, the most versatile of our Spanish sausages. It can be fried, sautéed, roasted or grilled, added to soups and stews, used to season legumes and vegetable dishes, or eaten thinly sliced on a crusty baguette.
Despite its universality, it is common for each region, and sometimes each village, to have its own special way of preparing chorizo, which means that there are hundreds of possible variations.
The most recognizable feature of chorizo is its striking color, which can range from burnt orange to bright red, thanks to the addition of Spanish paprika. It can be sweet, spicy or smoky, each of which imparts a distinctive aroma to these hearty sausages.The other ingredients are lean pork and lard, salt and other spices such as garlic and oregano.
To make chorizo, the mixture of pork and lard is marinated for one or two days with the seasonings and then stuffed into pork casings or synthetic casings made of collagen or vegetable cellulose. They are then hung to dry and cure or, in some more humid areas of Spain, lightly smoked before hanging.
Another, less common variant is fresh chorizo, which must be cooked before consumption.
At Solfarmers we know Spanish sausages. We know them because we have grown up with them. We have grown up in a gastronomic culture so rich and varied, so based on quality, that we are passionate about sharing it with the rest of the world. So you can enjoy a taste of Spain without leaving home.
